The best restaurants in Cornwall: 29 lip-smacking spots
Are we done with Cornwall? It seems hard to believe, but some of us are. Last year, visitor numbers were down, quite a bit in some areas. Whatever the reason, it could scarcely be attributed to the county's food scene, which remains resolutely undimmed despite a rough year. From old favourites to the freshest spots on the scene, these are the best restaurants in Cornwall right now. Happily, all of our favourite tables have survived, making them must-book restauarants for your next trip to Cornwall.
New Openings and Recognitions
And there have been openings: among them, chef Ethan Friskney-Bryer’s sublime North Street Kitchen in Fowey, which was quickly recognised by Michelin and awarded a Bib alongside Newlyn’s Agroe. There are other newcomers we’ll be checking out this summer: among them, pasta specialist Little Ears in Newquay, chef Charlie Walters’ Narla in Fowey, as well as just-reopened Kelp Canteen, the beloved seafood shack that does excellent fish plates on Falmouth’s main harbour.
Nancarrow Farm
Nancarrow Farm sits in the heart of endless hills of farmland, revealing itself like a prize well won after a bumpy ride down a gravel country lane. This land has been farmed by the same family for nine generations, opening its doors to lucky guests in 2014. Visiting Nancarrow Farm for one of their feasts can easily make for one of those pinch-me moments. The smell of smoking meats and fresh bread immediately hits us – we know we’re in for a treat.
The menu is small, elevated but unfussy, and balanced. We decided on the woodfired seabass with spring onion chimichurri and the dry-aged rump cap tomato panzanella and pickles. The seabass was crispy, with lightly sweet meat and a tart flavour coming through the chimichurri; while the rump cap’s smoky, rich flavour paired with the briny flavour of pickle was perfection. Side dishes included heritage tomatoes bursting with flavour, Cornish mid potatoes with a tangy yoghurt, chive and parmesan dressing, and a kitchen garden salad. Pudding was an apple mousse with raspberry and toasted oats and a Maleku chocolate, miso caramel with caramelised seeds. A visit to Nancarrow Farm guarantees a delicious meal, a warm ambience, and you can even organise an overnight stay in one of their beautiful rooms.
Ardor
Occupying a plum spot on St Ives’ main high street, chef-owner Dorian Janmaat’s smart, small plates-with-benefits bistro, Ardor, had only been open five minutes before it was given the oh-so-coveted Michelin nod. Inspired by the former Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons chef’s time cooking on the Iberian peninsula, standouts on the simple, easy-to-navigate menu include grilled octopus with caponata and preserved lemon, rotisserie porchetta with chimichurri and the crowd-pleasing chicken shawarma with cumin yogurt and apricot harissa. The steak is superb, or there’s coal-fired fish—think, whole John Dory or sardines with burnt lemon and aioli—to remind us we’re in Cornwall.
Wine-Centric Cafe at Rock Estuary
Repped by Gordon Ramsay, this small, unadorned wine-centric cafe-restaurant on the Rock estuary has quietly assembled a fiercely loyal following for its straightforward, uncomplicated channelling of seasonal ingredients into reliably delicious dishes. The menu changes daily, but there’s always a pasta option: on our visit, pappardelle with clams, garlic and parsley. Fish, not surprisingly, is another big draw: start with silky red mullet crudo in almond dressing before moving on to roasted brill in agretti and lemon.
Key Restaurant Information
| Restaurant | Address | Website |
|---|---|---|
| Nancarrow Farm | St Allen, Truro TR4 9DG | nancarrowfarm.co.uk |
| Ardor | 45 Fore Street, Saint Ives TR26 1HE | ardorstives.co.uk |